Livingston...


Totally Different

You go to Livingston and you are apt to think you are visiting a Caribbean island...especially since you can only get there by boat. Not gonna see many women in huipiles here...unless she is a tourist from elsewhere in the country. This is the center for Guatemala's black Garifuna population. The Garifunas have a varied heritage. Some are supposed to be the decendants of slaves who were shipped wrecked on the Caribbean coast of Central America. Others are supposed to have been exiled there when they took part in slave rebellions on islands. Whatever the case, they have their own customs, music, food and language. Livingston is hot and humid...and being right on the ocean prone to heavy rains.

Transportation

Getting there is done while either going to or coming from Tikal. So just reverse if you are doing the opposite of what I'm describing. Coming from the rest of the country, get a bus to Puerto Barrios. It's an old, not too nice seaport. If you wanna stay then look at what LP Guat. has to say. Boats are just a couple blocks from the bus station. Cabs are available but it is safe to walk during the day. Couple different types of boats. Cheapest...though both are cheap...is the ferry. Runs a few times a day...not even going to try and post a schedule as it changes too much. Close to the ferry are smaller launches. These leave as soon as they fill up and go throughout the day. A dollar or two more than the ferry...but faster. All traffic to Livingston is gonna arrive at the public dock. Now...before going into what to do and where to stay in town..I'll cover how to leave. If you came in from Puerto Barrios I'll assume you are going up to Rio Dulce and on to Tikal. Launches leave from the same dock in Livingston for Rio Dulce. There is an informal difference between a tourist and local launch. Tourist launches charge a tad more...but make some stops along the way. Nature of the stops varies. If you get on a launch loaded with locals don't count on stops. Where do they stop? One area is a lagoon filled with lilies. Lots of birds. Supposed to be manatees but I've never seen them. Another stop is along the bank of the river where a hot spring enters. You can slip overboard and swim. Last stop...and not all do it...is at a small, primitive resort. You can view the handicrafts store...not much and walk the trail along a small stream. I've photos in my Livingston gallery. The trip up river is nice. Lots of vegetation. When you get to Rio Dulce you pass the yachties marina, go under the bridge and swing past the old Spanish fort. Launch stops at the dock at the base of the bridge. They figure everyone is looking for a bus and there is usually a guy from the bus station who will lead you to the station....just an office. If he is not there then just walk up to the road from the dock, cross over to the other side and walk the short distance to the bus station. Safe and you can't miss it. Buses don't originate here but many pass by. It is possible that the first one may be full. But don't worry, you will get a seat soon enough. Like all transport in Guat. it works even though it looks like it won't.

Getting Around and Doing Stuff in Livingston

Only two main roads in town so you walk everywhere. Couple vehicles in town. The police have a quad runner...after all...no where for someone to run to. When you get off your boat at the dock you have two options for getting a hotel. Either walk up the hill into the center of town or turn left and follow the other road longside the river. There is also a fancy place right by the dock..Villa Caribe. Even has real toilets. So...what's the difference with your other choices. Those along the river get a breeze....which can be critical. The three story place..forget the name...catches the best breeze if you get a top floor room. Open windows on both sides and it can be close to cool at night. LP likes the Casa Rosada which is about 500 meters down the river road. It serves good food...but to me the individual cabins all seemed dark and dank. Plus this is a long hump at night from the center. Probably don't want walk on lonely streets at night. More on this later. An OK option in the center is the Rio Tropicales. Follow the road up hill. Center of town is at the top. There you will see the Rio. From the outside it looks like an absolute dump but once inside you will see that it is merely funky. Center is really only a couple blocks so walk around and see everything. One other major side street but nothing thrill down it. So whatcha gonna do? Drink a coco loco...chilled coconut with rum. Buy coconut bread from strolling vendors. Eat tapado. This is Livingstons claim to fame. Big bowel of fish stew. At the best should have crab legs, whole fish and bunch of shrimp. Served with coconut bread. At night informal...and often not super good..garifuna bands wander from restaurant to restaurant. It's a bang on the drums, shake the maracas..or what ever...type of music. Throw some coins in the hat. There you have downtown Livingston. Couple of hikes...popular one is to the Seven Altars. ...waterfall type of hikes. Be careful. In the past there have been robberies. Ask around for current conditions. This has varied a lot over the years.

Pains in the Butt

Notice that I don't say dangers because they only are if you let them be or are incredibly stupid. Central America has it's crack coast running from Belize to Costa Rica. In the case of Livingston, as you sit at one of the restaurants on the main street you will...unless incredibly dense..see several young...and not so young guys crusing along and talking to folks. A common conversation starter is to ask for a cigarette. They get talking to you for a while and they will...after bumming a beer...offer you drugs. Many have drugs to sell..various kinds. Up to you if you partake. I make no statements about quality. If it is just dealing..that is cool. Just examine the merchandise...be prepared to maybe not get all you pay for. The thing to watch out for is an invitation to go elsewhere...either to finish the deal or maybe to go to a party. Either story could be true. But if you are not prepared...in all senses...to gut knife someone if need be...then seriously consider declining. Me...I won't do business with these guys. Not only because I don't trust them...but I don't want to even see them around. Livingston would be better without them. Hey girls...stay away from the slimeballs. You might like pulling a train...but the ones who come after you probably won't...and you encourage them.